Salon Allergy Specialist

Salon Allergy Specialist

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Hilighting with a PPD Allergy (or a metal* allergy)

I was planning on posting the final result on the new color I have been trying lately, but I've had a few family things to attend to this week. I will have to attempt to get to that ASAP. My apologies. I've been holding this one for a bit, so I'm releasing it now.  

I've been asked about hilights, and in most cases it is possible to do with a PPD allergy, if you use bleach. Hair bleach, I use white, then I know it doesn't have any coloring at all. I do feel that some PPD reactive clients might need to be more careful than others, so here is my advice on why.

The answer is two parts, and you will need to take me seriously. Cover your bases, and you can be safe. I am NOT a doctor, nor do I pretend to be one. You ALWAYS need to seek a doctor for medical help, and follow your doctor's directions first! I have been a licensed NYS cosmetologist for 30 years, and I have a background based in chemistry. (aka nerd) For the past 14 years, I have been studying hair color allergies.

IF YOU HAVE A SEVERE PPD ALLERGY, YOU NEED TO HAVE 2 EPI PENS FROM YOUR DOCTOR. They may save your life. Tape one to your fridge, and put one in your purse. (If you don't carry a purse, you may be able to keep it in your vehicle, but you will have to read the package about temperature) If you feel tightness in your throat, it can take seconds for it to close off your breathing, and suffocate you. An epi pen is a way to get the drug into you.These are two VERY different medicines!This is only for a severe reaction of anaphylactic shock. It is NOT for minor itching, hives, welts, sores, open wounds,burns, burning sensations, or any of the like.

When I had the symptoms of tiny, itchy bumps all around the edges of my face after I colored it the night before, I thought I was getting a break out from my monthly visitor. I had washed up for the evening and took 2 Tylanol PM's for my aching head, and my need to relax. So, no itching because the PM part is Benadryl! I knew my face and hairline were bothering me, but holy cow, All day the next day it was really Itchy. When I got home, the tiny bumps were larger bumps with fluid in them. Still small though. I actually had a friend online catch it for me while we were chatting. Too close to the situation to think I could all of the sudden be allergic?! I certainly was. She told me that I accidently took the benadryl and had relief. She had been Prescribed Zyrtec and Benadryl. I called my doctor's office, they told me to do the same thing, and the amount of time to use it.  

What I had been taught about bleach previously, was that you can become allergic to bleach, but it is in our drinking water, pool water, and spa's/hot tubs.* If you can scrub things with bleach, swim in a pool, or soak in a spa, you should not be allergic to bleach for hair. HOWEVER, I have done MUCH MORE extensive research on this myself now, and I know this is not the case. There are two main ingredients in all hair bleaches that you can become allergic to, they are both persulfates. One is ammonium persulfate, the other is potassium persulfate. I would stay away from ammonium Persulfate, as it has a higher rate of "uticaria" or hives according to a report from Cornell University.

Also, There are bleaches that have bluing in them. They can be ultramarines, or CI77007, it they are usually in very small quantities, and I have never heard of it bothering anyone. This is something that if you have a very bad reaction, I would use an ammonia persulfate in a white bleach over the CI77007. Just because it won't touch your head, I've learned the hard way that some of my clients can't take chances.

High lift tints - You can not use tints of ANY KIND. Period. I can not stress this enough. Spanish medical study done on hair color to determine if PPD free color had any amount of PPD. Guess what? Some of it actually did. Each of the 22 color companies tested were color companies used worldwide. The number one company that was cited? Wella. Has it been rectified? Does it matter? The company was bought by the second culprit. Proctor and Gamble. Please do not take chances with color.

If you want to do a hilight, you can do foils OFF the SCALP,(BLEACH) or a cap OFF the scalp with bleach. If you have had a reaction that sent you to the hospital, you MUST use white bleach.

There you have it. Hilight 101 for PPD sufferers.

* Some powder free bleaches contain Titanium Dioxide. This is a chalk like substance that is a byproduct from mining titanium. It's not confirmed, but I believe it is possible to have a reaction to this bleach if you have severe metal allergies. There is a test for metals, it's called the MELISA test.