Salon Allergy Specialist

Salon Allergy Specialist

Friday, December 13, 2013

UPDATE: KOLESTON INNOSENSE, SEE NEW ARTICLE - P&G develops new ME+ molecule with less allergies for Wella, is it SAFE?

Happy Holidays! I hope everyone is having a great holiday season this year. We just had a beautiful snow this morning, it made the Christmas music on the radio a LOT more bearable today. I received an e-mail today that was a request for information on the new ME+ molecule from Wella, which is a Proctor & Gamble company. The new diamine information became available to me in October, but I was not impressed about the information that I read. P&G's inform said it would not people who were already allergic, and it would not stop all allergies. So, I chose not to write about it. I now realize that I need to put the information out about it, good or bad.

It took chemists around the world 20 years to develop this molecule, and they turned down many chemicals before this one. It is an important step in my industry, because it is moving in the right direction. A baby step, but a good step. If it helps to cause less new allergies, then it is a good thing. The name of the chemical is 2-Methoxymeth-p-Phenylenediamine, which did gave me a bit of an eyebrow raise. This is why it will not help people who already have allergy problems with PPD.  While I would like to see a color that the allergic clients could use, we have to crawl before we walk, or we will never run.

Dr. Carsten Goebel, immuno-toxicologist with P&G, stated "that there is data backing up the information." Dr. Bryan Murphy, section head at P&G, said that "there is a growing interest in color that is reduced in the risk of allergic reactions."  From Dr Bianca Piraccini, a dermatologist from the University of Bologna in Italy,
[An]Allergy has two phases. The first is called ‘induction’, when the allergy is developing but shows no symptoms. The second phase is called ‘elicitation’ which is when the symptoms can actually appear. The claim for ME+ is that it has lower potency than PPD/PTD, and so induction of allergy is less likely. But it still could elicit reactions, especially in those already sensitised to PPD/PTD. As Dr Piraccini says: “Severe allergic reactions can still happen, but the induction of an allergy is less likely with the new ME+ technology”.

Wella currently plan to launch the new ME+ molecule as part of their Salon Professional portfolio in early 2014. The product will be called Koleston Perfect Innosense and it will come to salons in 22 shades on launch.

The first link here is to an article in Europe, the second is to the Adobe file from P&G. The third is the European Union's evaluation on the chemical.

So, the verdict? It's not safe for anyone with allergies. Sorry folks.