Salon Allergy Specialist

Salon Allergy Specialist

Sunday, September 7, 2014

I'm Allergic to PPD, What Can't I Use?

The question I am most often asked..."Can I use _______ color?" I use a cheat sheet that is a compilation of colors that are professionally available. There are also many colors available at drugstores, which have the ingredients listed on the package by law. I'm a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, both the New York Chapter, and the National Chapter, so I'm aware of any new developments. I can access ingredients of most products. A few color companies I have contacted won't discuss what the diamines were in their color, which means that you don't want to try it. Secrecy is never a good thing! There is reason it's important to know and trust the company and brand of color. 

This link is a Spanish study done that includes PPD testing of several colors available in Spain. It found one blond color by Wella that had PPD in it that did not include it in the ingredients. It is dated from 2010, so this COULD have been corrected by now. Scarier information included that was from reference material was that about 45 percent of the hairdressers tested in 1981 were sensitized to PPD.  I will remind readers that in the U.S., in 2006 PPD was voted as the number one allergen. Between then and 2012, the number of people who became allergic doubled. I am not sure how this could possibly have happened, because no one can find a doctor who has heard of it TO THIS DAY. That is the second most asked question, followed by "Where can I find a hairdresser that will understand this?" I offer classes to anyone who will listen, so don't be afraid to ask!

This is a list of ingredients to look for- it is NOT complete!
  • TDS TOLUENEDIAMINE SULFATE (not all will be allergic to this...only 60%)
  • PPDA
  • Phenylenediamine Base
  • p-Phenylenediamine
  • 4-Phenylenediamine
  • 1,4-Phenylenediamine
  • 4-Benzenediamine
  • 1,4-Benzenediamine 
  • para-Diaminobenzene (p-Diaminobenzene)
  • para-Aminoaniline (p-Aminoaniline)
  • Orsin (trademark)
  • Rodol (trademark)
  •  Ursol (trademark)
  • 2-Nitro-1
  • 4-Diaminobenzene
  • Dye GS
  • Durafur Brown 2R
  • Fouramine 2R
  • 1,4 Diaminonitrobenzol (German)
  • 1,4 Diamino -2-Nitrobenzene
  • C.I. Oxidation Base 22
  • Fourrine Brown 2R
  • NCI-Co2222,4-Amino2-Nitroaniline
  • 2-Nitro-1,4-Benzenediamene
  • Fourrine 36
  • o-Nitro-p-Phenylenediamine
  • 2-Nitro1,4-Phenylenediamine
  • Nitro-Phenylenediamine
  • Oxidation Base 22
  • Ursol Brown RR
  • C.I. 76070
  • Zoba Brown RR
  • 2-Nitro-4-Aminoaniline
The following colors are PPD based colors, so DON'T USE:

Aveda - Pre 2011
Beth Minardi
Clairol Natural Instincts
Herbatint - Pre-2014 
Matrix (There is one without PPD, it's TDS)
Naturtint Reflex
Paul Mitchell 

The following are TDS based colors, so SOME many not be allergic:

Aveda - Post 2011
Clairol Beautiful, Advanced Grey
Framesi Eclectic
Kemon-yo, Ne-Yo
Mastey Teinture
Matrix Colorinsider
Pravana Silk Degrees
Sanotint (most people react to this)
Schwartzkopf Essensity, Igora
Wella Koleston/color charm - (May contain PPD) 

The following have AZO dyes, which many people CAN use:

Clairol : Beautiful, Born Blond Toner, Glorious Greys, Jazzing Shades 94, 96, 97, 98 & 99, X-treme FX Color Shocks, and Loving Care
Davine's Finest Pigments
Goldwell's Elumen
Manic Panic (the red sometimes bothers people)
Roux Fanciful Rinse
Roux Color Mousse

This is NOT a complete list. This is only for people to avoid asking me the same questions over and over. EVERY COLOR SHOULD BE TRIPLE PATCH TESTED! Twice on the inner arm, three days apart, for 15 minutes, and then once behind the ear. Mixed if this is an option. There should be NO marks what so ever after testing is finished. No welts, bumps, rash, hives, itching, or redness for the entire three days. It took me a few years to develop this way of testing, but it will save you from getting your entire head covered with a reactive product because the current patch testing doesn't work. 

I hope this blog helps some people to react less. 

Read my other entries, they can help! If you like what your reading, subscribe to this blog. I write once a month.

Happy Fall!